Maple Syrup, Pure (with recipe)

            Pure maple syrup is, alas, a vanishing commodity. Imitation “pure” maple syrups abound on the markets; even those syrups claiming to contain no additives have usually been processed in a most distasteful manner. In 1962 the Food and Drug Administration sanctioned the use of formaldehyde tablets (or pellets) in the tap holes of sugar maple trees. Although this law was passed in the name of sanitation, the truth is that the tablet keeps the tap hole open and allows the sap to flow much earlier and longer than it should or ever has. The supreme flavor of syrup tapped at its prime is utterly lost. As for the formaldehyde, its users claimed that it evaporates as the syrup is boiled. We, however, would feel more at ease if the formaldehyde had kept its old-fashioned place on the poison shelf. Also, bacterial cultures may be added to the syrup to restore proper flavor, and antifoaming agents are often used. Though formaldehyde tablets are now banned, it is rumored that some disreputable maple syrup farms still use them. Know your sources and demand untreated syrup.

            Yet after all is said and done, because the syrup is made by evaporation and is exposed to heat for a long period of time, the finished product is no more nor less than a delicious sugar. It might be more healthful to use unheated honey or molasses on your next batch of pancakes – but we cannot pretend that there is really any substitute for the delicate sweetness of pure maple syrup!

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MAPLE MOUSSE

1 pint heavy cream

¾ cup maple syrup

6 egg yolks, beaten well

Pinch of salt

¼ cup ground nuts

1.      Beat heavy cream until it is thick but not whipped. In a double boiler heat the syrup until it is just warm. Add egg yolks slowly, stirring constantly. Add salt. Stir until the mixture thickens – about 3-4 minutes.

2.      Remove from heat and stir until it cools. Fold in the cream. Pour into one larger bowl or into individual cups and put in the freezer of your refrigerator.

3.      Remove frozen mousse from the freezer 20 minutes before you plan to serve it. Sprinkle ground nuts on top. A luxuriously rich dessert.

4.      Serves six.